Montréal Jazz Festival is a beloved annual celebration. According to the Guinness Book of Records, it is the largest jazz festival in the world, with over two million fans of music of all genres descending on the city throughout the festival’s joyous 10-day run. B.B. King called it the “Best in the world!”

Oh, the heat, la chaleur, is fierce today, compounded by Montreal’s punishing humidity. Children splash in sidewalk fountains, crowing and shrieking as the cool jets bubble, splash and surprise.

History Meets Hip

Montréal is a sophisticated city that embraces its historic French heritage and multi-cultural future.

Updated row houses with signature exterior spiral stairs peacefully coexist with modern glass and steel condo/office towers that seem to touch the clouds.

This urban oasis features multiple places of worship in gorgeous architectural styles, from Gothic to Art Deco to contemporary. Montréal is as diverse as it is fascinating.

Montréal invites artists from all over the world to its annual Mural Festival each year. Artists create vibrant works of art here, where the urban art form is revered and supported – impressive.

This hybrid of modern sensibility, multicultural diversity, and reverence for the past is perhaps the future of urbanism — nice job, Montreal!

Oh Canada!

We arrive on Canada Day, July 1, and stay through the 5th, sparing ourselves the red, white and blue excesses at home. Place des Festivals is alive with music and throngs of happy fans – a beautiful sight!

Four-Season Festivals

Montreal is not merely a summer destination, oh no. With more than 90 festivals throughout the year, it is a city for all seasons, with something for everyone.

We love the crisp, chilly winter fest, La Lumiere. You may find yourself in snow up to your armpits, but the city magically makes it all work. Neither ice nor snow nor la chaleur breaks Montréal’s spirit!

Native Cuisine: Au Bon Gout

We sip, savor and explore our way through this delicious city. Food is a great way to experience the art and soul of any place, and Montréal is no exception.

We book a loft on Rue Saint-Denis in the epicenter of culinary diversity, the Quartier Latin. Saint-Denis closes to traffic from June 1 – Sept. 30, creating a wonderful culinary corridor all summer. International cafés, street-side bistros and pubs make the Quartier an incredible foodie destination to sip, savor and explore.

Good Morning

Breakfast is the most important meal of the day. We stroll to Eva B on nearby Saint-Laurent, part junk shop, resale boutique, funky jewelry and ephemera emporium – and café. Eva’s rocks. 

We linger over frothy cappuccino under Eva’s trees. We’re honored to share curried carrot-chickpea roll-ups beneath a mural featuring Canadian hockey great, “Rocket” Richard – Breakfast of Champions!

Quebecois Classics

If you prefer to rise and shine with Quebecois flair, there are many creperies throughout the city. We sit street-side, enjoying cheesy crepes and sipping dark roast. This is all-day fare, sweet or savory. Yum.

Or how about the venerable Montreal Classic, poutine? From gourmet to gritty, poutine is the ultimate hangover food, and available everywhere.

Takeout choices abound on Saint-Denis, from pizza to pierogi to Portugese. Tip for home cooks: get to Piri-Piri on Saint-Denis for a bottle of their house-made marinade. It’s a delectable souvenir!

Day Dreaming

Herbie Hancock conducts a press conference in Griffintown, and I am lucky enough to be invited. This jazz icon has a truly generous spirit.

And a fascinating backstory: From urban Chicago youth, to joining jazz-great Don Byrd’s band at age 15 (“you’ll have to ask my mother”). From young husband and father, to making music with legend, Miles Davis. Now a grandfather, Buddhist and vegan, this swingin’ cat is all wisdom and gravitas.

Sangria City

We return to earth, post-Herbie, with cool two-tone sangria at our fave Griffintown pub, Burgundy Lion. Each bar and bistro in Montréal has its own unique sangria. According to a sturdy, antique law, sangria must be prepared by the glass. We sample as many wonderful versions as we can.

Upscale Sesame

We make our way back to the jazz fest to the strains of gentle violin and piano. We dig the afternoon sound-checks, ubiquitous and free. And as always, this rarified jazzy atmosphere makes us hungry…

We pop in to Sesame Bistro for signature sangria and jumbo calamari. Both are outstanding, deeply flavorful, and studded with black sesame seeds. The cool blonde sangria of white wine, Bombay gin, strawberry syrup, lemongrass, fresh ginger, kombucha, sesame, and yes, lychee – is superb!

Jazz Time

Free & Fabulous

Beneath the trees of Place Tranquille, we’re in the groove with Endea Owens & The Cookout. We sip chilled Prosecco as the band glows, red hot. All of us are on our feet in appreciation.

Bassist and composer Endea Owens has played alongside jazz and soul greats like Wynton Marsalis, Solange, Jon Batiste and Dee Dee Bridgewater. She shimmies her fringe and delivers gospel-style riffs on God and man. Endea, we love you!

Festival Crush 2023

Pedrito Martinez (center) brings his Afro-Cuban conga joy to Jazz Time. His smile is infectious and his drumming, impeccable. Coo-coo-ca-choo, Pedrito, you are my Festival Crush. Deal with it.

With over 300 free events at the Festival you will be amused and delighted in equal parts each evening at Jazz Time. All gratis performances are carefully vetted for skills and musicality. Heck, don’t you want that job? I do.

Bird’s Eye View

We go waaaay up high to watch and listen to the festival unfold. It’s magic. Here we are on the Doubletree Hotel’s roof-deck lounge catching the McGill Jazz Band. What fun!

Night Moves

Jazz Evenings

Trumpeter Chris Botti showcases his world-class talent and golden sound. At the very top of his game, Botti best known for blending classic and contemporary jazz. He graciously welcomes an array of amazing guest artists who seamlessly become part of his performance. Wonderful!

Melody Gardot has captivated audiences everywhere with her soulful, sultry voice, and unique blend of jazz, blues, and R&B. Supported by her amazing band, she wows the Jazz Fest (and me) with a multi-faceted performance of classics from the Great American Songbook. Ah.

Canadian jazz pianist, vocalist and goddess Diana Krall is legendary for soulful vocals and unparalleled piano chops. She mesmerizes all of us in Wifred-Pelletier Hall with her brand of pure jazz magic — an extra-special night for jazz fans like me. Diana is dreamy.

Nightcap

It’s late. We head to venerable blues club JoJo on Saint-Denis, near our “home-away.” The music is late, and happily, so are we. We lean in and decompress to bearded bluesman Caleb Taylor and his percussive guitar licks before heading to the loft for a good night’s sleep. Zzz.

Good Morning

If you’re hungover, which is inevitable, hop down to Atwater Market for a whiff of the day’s produce, fragrant flowers and baking bread. Restorative and revitalizing, a fresh and friendly morning recharge.

Grab coffee and pastry at Boulangerie Premiere Moisson – the raspberry Danoise are fresh, sweet and lovely!

Farewell Feast

At Casa Galicia, we’re welcomed by lovely flamenco guitar and cool glass of wine. The smiling owner is gracious despite the oppressive chaleur, and assures us that he speaks Spanish, French and English.

After our last day of exploring Montreal’s urban core, it is nice to be welcomed into this lovely setting. First course of grilled octopus, greens and herbs is fresh and delicious; a cool seafood salad. Followed by a succulent second course of chubby bacalao (cod) fritters and plump grilled shrimp.

And oh my, this is followed by our standout third course, Casa Galicia’s signature paella. Ta-da! Studded with clams, mussels, scallops, chicken and chorizo – a gracious and tasty au revoir from my favorite North American city!

A lovely way to end our week of la chaleur, incredible music, occasional thunderstorms and superb food. This festival is my kind of jazzy madness, and this tasty finale gives us the potent recharge that an overheated summer requires.

With a mix of local and international jazz and world music artists, the festival is always a celebration of culture and joy. From the smooth sounds of classic jazz to the energetic beats of hip-hop and fusion, there’s something for everyone. So come on up to Montréal for a week or a weekend of non-stop music, celebration and joy. Trust me, this is the BEST and we look forward to it all year.

A Bientot, Montréal!

Sample Montréal Festivals

Traveling in troubled times can feel frivolous, but to us, it is essential. We break away to the south of France where we hope to to recharge our creative spirits for 2023.

We arrive in Nice. La Rachel is waiting, as promised. We pile into her espresso-colored Fiat and rumble into town into fetch Theater Boy and Wendy — there they are! Life is suddenly very, very good.

Overjoyed, we revive in Place Garibaldi with truffle scrambled eggs, boeuf tartare and greedy sips of Champagne. All five of us begin to decompress — we lean in, delighted.

Provence with a View

We arrive at our roomy digs in San Tropez. We toast ourselves and the stunning views over a cheese candelabra and the “intangible cultural heritage” that is baguette. We loll, laugh and linger.

Evening falls and the candles burn down, yet our feast continues with a deep, dark Boeuf Bourguignon a la Rachel, densely flavored and satisfying. We five agree that this is indeed the life.

Sip, Savor and Explore

And so this is Christmas! We begin our exploration of St. Tropez with a stroll through narrow streets of buildings in 50 shades of yellow. We lunch at Cafe de Paris overlooking the blue Mediterranean.

Our Champagne-fueled excess continues with a feast of marrow bones, delicate shrimp, and beautiful, deep yellow squash velouté. Ah.

Wine Country I – Les Arcs

We decide to explore the wine-soaked countryside, starting in Les Arcs, a quaint little town with clusters of ancient stone homes along steep, winding pathways to the historic clock tower.

It is easy to get lost among the charms of this tiny village. I wander away from our group, distracted by quirky medieval flourishes along the tangle of narrow streets.

Les Arcs is serene and quiet — a thoughtful place. A fleeting sense of being lost recalls the wisdom in the famous phrase, “Not all those who wander are lost.”

Wine Country II

The trusty espresso Fiat carries us through the mountains into the verdant hills of Font du Broc winery.

The enormous estate of organic grapevines and olive groves shares its magical terroir with wild horses, visitors and wine enthusiasts. The grounds are beautiful and the wines, delicieux!

Interior and exterior spaces are generous, full of light. We discuss whose next major event is most worthy of celebrating at Font du Broc. We leave with dazzled smiles, several bottles of rosé, and a vow to return.

St. Maxime

Ah Provence. It’s a quick drive to St. Maxime, an ancient town with more patisseries than supermarkets. This humble village is a great place to shop — more cheese, please! — and bathe in history.

We admire the tenacity and gravitas of the thousand-year-old olive tree rooted in the square. Amazing.

San Tropez Histoire

We devote a few days to the local wonders of San Tropez. We climb Citadel Hill, built in 1602 to defend the coastal harbor against Spain. Overlooking San Tropez to the east, water views are vast and mighty.

Citadel is home to the Musée de l’Histoire Maritime Tropézienne. Revel in sepia photos of weathered fishermen, and films of posh transatlantic transport in the 1920s — boozy, glittering and dancing wildly.

Don’t miss the wild peacocks in lustrous blue! The canny birds direct us down the hill to a jolly prix-fixe lunch of chicken tagine, squid and local wines — a banner day of touring in our seafaring home-away.

Shop Local

A morning walk leads to the open market in Place des Lices and a taste of “vieux” San Tropez. We sip robust and bitter coffee at Café des Arts, watch a game of pétanque, and let the world go by.

To Italophiles like us, pétanque most resembles bocce. It is played passionately, competitively and lazily — a beautiful and mysterious combination.

Cannes Cool

Hoping to catch some “Cannes Cool,” we motor along the winding waterfront to the the historic heart of Cannes. Despite a reputation for glitz and glamour, her ancient harbor shelters both fishing and luxury vessels — impressive egalité!

We make the vertiginous climb to a glorious 12th century cathedral, where, along with gorgeous paintings of saints and martyrs, there is a corny and creepy diorama of Santa’s workshop. Oh, well.

We lunch in a sunny waterfront bistro, and decide that despite the movie-star mojo and glam reputation, Cannes is a grande dame with a heart.

We’re charmed!

Antibes

En route, we detour to Antibes for an informative and delicious tasting of biodynamic wines at Entre 2 Vins. We savor local cheeses, paté and conviviality. Ten thumbs-up for Entre 2 Vins.

In Antibes, I stumble across some of the best advice I have ever received:

Another stupendous day for Epicurious Five!

Sea, Sand and Smoke

A short drive from San Tropez takes us to Ramatuelle, a serene cove with craggy Mediterranean views and soft sandy stretches — perfect for lazy, non-hiking enthusiasts like me. I bask — they hike.

As usual, the beachy beauty makes us hungry. We indulge in a ridiculously flavorful seaside lunch at Chez Camille, starting with chilled rosé, of course.

Sweet grilled peppers appear alongside salty anchovy spread. Dense and flavorful Bouillabaisse featuring an abundance of local seafood is wood-fired and gorgeous. Chorus: More rosé, yes!

We power through tangy tartes citron and bitter espresso. All this beachy indulgence is of course followed by a nap.

Art & Soul I

Back home in San Tropez, we devote a whole day to the arts with a heady visit to L’Annonciade museum in the heart of town.

Here we find wondrous works by Matisse, Derain, Gromaire, Vuillard and more. I fall in love with Van Dongen’s “Femmes a la Balustrade,” above. I could gaze at her for the rest of my life.

We recognize our local harbor, “San Tropez, Le Port,” by by Albert Marquet, 1905. Beautiful! And the waterfront still looks much the same.

Theater Boy and I are mutually stunned by the power of this hidden gem.

Senequier!

As always, all this art and soul makes us hungry. As the day wanes, we head to the twinkling red awning that is Senequier, one of San Tropez’s most crowded, popular and delicious destinations.

Here we enjoy enormous escargots, and briny salmon fumé. Plates of veal, shrimp, and chicken paillard. We eat and eat and eat, washing it down with white burgundy and a few Campari spritz. S’wonderful!

Senequier is also a cultural landmark: Sartre honed his writing chops right here in this venerable café.

Art & Soul II

We stumble onto an exhibition of contemporary works by Paul Richard Mason, whose quirky black and white sculptures and colorful paintings express a wise, joyous and playful spirit.

Born in Chicago and raised in London, Mason now lives and works in San Tropez. He speaks highly of his life here, “We have a great woman mayor!” he says. I am honored to meet this local, working artist.

Tarte Tropezienne

Don’t miss the city’s trademark treat, Tarte Tropezienne — soft brioche with vanilla cream, topped with chunky sugar crystals. Yum. Served with glass of local rosé, of course.

Brigitte Bardot tasted Tarte Tropezienne and declared she was in love. I get it.

Full Circle

And suddenly, it’s New Year’s Eve. A balmy night, people strolling the waterfront, sipping drinks and greeting friends. We circle back to Cafe de Paris, where we first began our holiday, for a dazzling celebration.

This must be France. There is a knockout prix-fixe menu featuring mushroom tart with truffles; foie gras with pear; lobster with coral butter; seared turbot with white caviar butter; roasted venison with parsnips; more truffles … and on and on and on. Delicious, decadent and abundantly appropriate!

Rachel says, “This is wild!” and it is. I am wide-eyed. Le Café is jam-packed. In the wee hours, we spot three beautiful women dancing on tables. The scene is epic, mind-blowing, magnifique!

Au Revoir

Theater Boy and Wendy depart early the next morning — surely, slightly hung-over. We bid them a bleary, “Au Revoir!” It has been a memorable and wondrous recharge, and we are deeply grateful. •

Next Up: 24 Hours In Nice!

Parma is a champion of sustainable development. With a vibrant pedestrian center, the city is alive with chatty students, swanning hipsters, buskers and a billion bikes. Cars keep their distance and compete for parking outside the centro — life the way it should be. What took us so long to get here?

Art & Soul

We roam the16^th century Palazzo Pilotta. Wander its light-filled spaces and savor the collection in its national gallery and works by local painterly legends like Correggio and Parmegianino.

Gorgeous! Head of a Young African in marble and volcanic basalt. Stunning.

Don’t miss the pompous, portly busts of Ranuccio II Farnese by Bernini. Glory in his royal puffiness! Rejoice in his royal paunch!

Leggendo

Palazzo Pilotta includes a magnificent library. The Driver is impressed. “These book are real,” he says. And they are, hundreds and hundreds. Religious paintings and Farnese family portraits glow and dazzle.

On The Boards

Spectacular golden light — we’re wowed by the palazzo’s soaring Teatro Farnese. Yes, the theater is all wood, built in the 17th century. The space is magical.

Swoon at the sight of this elegant, exquisite DaVinci.

Fashion Forecast

In an attempt to remember why we’re here, we cruise the fashionable Borgo Tomassini, an eclectic alley with Parisian mojo. An installation of dozens of mirrors reflects the euros changing hands below.

“Babol” pink is everywhere, along with several shades of smeraldo green; tangerine, periwinkle and poppy.

Looks like 50 Shades of Happy for 2022 / 23. Can’t hurt.

Sustenance

Window shopping makes us hungry. We spot Cardinal Bar, lively and full of locals. The Tortelli Parmigiana is rich and unctuous, under a rough handful of famous formaggio. A loaded salumi plate is a savory knockout. With a lightly sparkling local red, life is delizioso here in Parma.

Hotel Villa Ducale, just outside the centro, is a great place to refresh, stock up on shampoo, and enjoy a dynamite breakfast. Bonus: Villa Ducale is surrounded by athletic fields. The Driver is ecstatic. He catches a spectacular roughneck rout — Italy vs. British women’s rugby. He is still glowing.

Sleep

We rest, recharge and hone our carpe diem skills in this lovely spot before heading to Como, the last stop on our 50-day odyssey.

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Post-Script: Love in Bloom

One of Parma’s most famous residents is composer Giuseppe Verdi. There are Verdi festivals, Verdi roads and bridges, and dozens of grand sculptures. In Parma, I chat with the old boy daily via magic telephone. We canoodle in secluded piazzas. We tell each other everything. Love is definitely in the air.

Giuseppe is dashing, devilishly handsome and technologically savvy. Scan the code and listen to his beautiful, sonorous voice.

Beautiful Bird’s-Eye View

Montecatini Alto is a rewarding and vertiginous drive. It is petite and easy to explore. Our apartment is just a few steps from the main piazza. Landmarks include Torre dell’Orologio, Church of Carmine and Theatro di Risorti, now in delicate repair/reconstruction.

Relax in the centro. Explore the Torre, La Rocca, a cathedral or two. Wander narrow streets and rustic paths within the city walls, and, if you dare, on the steep hillsides that define Montecatini Alto.

The Driver loves exploring this tiny Tuscan treasure.

We experience full sun, a day of rain, and a small snow squall. Seriously. Just watching the weather is a total gas.

Sleep & Sustenance

Our apartment has great views and quirky fuses. You’d think I’d have learned by now not to run two “big” appliances at once. When the whole place goes dark, smiling neighbors finish cooking my chicken. Soon the system sorts itself, and so do we. We LOVE this place — truly madly deeply!

In a nearby café, surprise! A trio of bruschetta: white bean, velvety liver paté, and traditional fresh tomato. Followed by deeply earthly porcini pasta with wide yellow peppardelle — rustic and sexy. Then there is chinghiale, wild boar, ultimate Tuscan fare. Bitter green salads cleanse our ecstatic palates.

Art & Soul

If you need a break from the altitude, descend the hill to charming MoCA Contemporary in Montecatini Terme. This first civic art gallery has works by distinguished Italian artists and many more, including a crazy-wonderful “Woman Entangled in a Flight of Birds” by Joan Mirò.

Art. Slow food. Walks. Views! Montecatini Alto has it all.