Old pal Marcello invites us to Zürich for my birthday, a mere three hours from our “home away” in Sagnino, Italy. The Driver loves a road trip, and we both adore Marcello — let’s go!
Driving through endless fields dotted with sheep and cows, we make a few stupid jokes about yodeling but soon knock it off, humbled by the splendor of the mountains and miles of green.
Bellinzona
Stopping for coffee in Bellinzona, we notice the difference between Italy and Switzerland immediately in the price of, well, everything. Grudgingly, we convert our euros to Swiss francs and feel the burn.
We are now on the hunt for caffeine and our primary source of delight – ART. And we don’t have to look very far.
Bellinzona’s central green features a sprawling exhibition of sculpture, all about the human form.
From enormous abstract cutouts to reclining nudes, it’s all here and absolutely public — free and accessible to touch and appreciation by all ages.
On the Road Again
“Getting there is half the fun,” The Driver says, and he’s right.
Our next stop is Andeer, the ultimate Swiss village. Making the scene in this adorable hamlet seems to consist of church, market, and endless blue sky — a perfect spot for lunch with a view.
We install ourselves in the outdoor café at Hotel Post, and delight in a picturesque and filling lunch of ravioli (Italian influence, yes!) and glasses of perfectly chilled Müller Thurgau. We revel in the abundant sunshine and this upscale / old world setting.
Zürich: Riverbank Revelry
At last, Zurich! The waterfront is alive with families and couples of all ages rocking the riverbank, a lively and convivial scene.
The iconic clock face atop St. Peter, the largest in Europe, helps visitors like us navigate the city. We wind our way along the lake to the Marcello’s home in the verdant peaceful exurb of Küsnacht.
Carl Jung and Thomas Mann lived in Küsnacht, but its most famous resident was the eternally fabulous American expat, Tina Turner. Herman Haller‘s sculpture Die Schwebende, above, expresses the art and soul of Tina’s indomitable, soaring spirit!
City Tour
Marcello guides us to the Kreis 5 neighborhood, the locus of hipster Zurich. Well done!
The neighborhood’s industrial past reveals its clearly contemporary future, with museums, galleries, art studios and shops. Don’t return home without a colorful Freitag Bag, the hippest carryall on the planet!
We visit Migros Art Museum’s stunning exhibition, The Visitors, a film by Ragnar Kjartansson. A multi-generational audience inhabits the exhibition space, seated on the floor, standing, or clustered in small groups.
The Visitor is set in a crumbling New York mansion, projected on nine screens. Each screen highlights one performer and one room, from conservatory to bath, singing, “Once again, I fall into my feminine ways.” It is mesmerizing, wonderful!
Friendship Rules
Admission to the Migros is free for all visitors until mid-September 2023. This “Act of Friendship” feels entirely appropriate during our beautiful spring break.
Grossmünster Cathedral
The next day we’re off to Altstadt, Old Town, and the mighty Grossmünster Cathedral. We are eager to see the vivid stained glass windows by Swiss artist Augusto Giacometti created in 1933. The deeply hued, brilliant windows tell the Christmas story in passionate color. Surprise! Mary is the star.
We’re also fascinated by the seven “Agate” windows by Sigmar Polke, whose slim slices of agate, beautifully arranged, are a wonder. The densely vibrant windows are said to “depict a coagulation of prehistoric times.” Hm. Okay, whatever — they are stunning, absolutely gorgeous.
Fraumünster Cathedral
We stroll to our second grand cathedral, the Fraumünster, originally part of a convent, where Marc Chagall’s incredible stained glass windows reside. As Pablo Picasso said, “He must have an angel in his head,” and we agree. Extraordinarily beautiful, deeply spiritual work.
The Driver is fascinated by ruins of a 9th-century crypt beneath the Fraumünster. Cool.
St. Peter’s Church
Our third religious foray is to 13th Century Church of St. Peter. This historic, understated gem is a gentle space, the interior striking in its simplicity. Look up to see ancient Hebrew lettering above gospel text. The quiet spirit calms and inspires — a very special place.
Compared to majestic Grossmünster and Fraumünster with their moody, glorious windows, St. Peter feels modest, almost subdued. St. Peter’s will hold a Klezmer concert, Tumbalalaika, later this month. How I’d love to hear the clarinet, saxophone and bass rock this beautiful sanctuary!
Sip & Savor
As always, all this sightseeing makes us hungry. We beg Marcello for a classic Swiss lunch, please. He indulges us with jolly Johanniter Brasserie in the central Neiderdorf neighborhood.
Johanniter is a traditional city pub with loads of history. Servers deliver hearty favorites like schnitzel and sausage, with mountains of fries for sharing. Of course they also feature a robust selection of local and international beer. We leave sated and smiling.
Shop ’Til You Drop
We stroll the Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s ultimate shopping street. Consider carefully; it is easy to lose your mind and empty your wallet when surrounded by lovely things!
This is the epicenter of watches and timepieces, from Swatch to Movado. If you are on the hunt for an exquisite, durable, high-quality timepiece, Zurich is the place.
The Bahnhofstrasse is also a great place to shop for wondrous, silky chocolate. There is no a better place to bring your sweet tooth than Teuscher or Laderach for refined, delicious, world-class chocolate. Swoonworthy!
At Sibler, high-end kitchenware emporium, we buy a tall pepper grinder shaped like a rhinoceros horn. We fill it with Calabrian peperoncini and create a “hot” international hybrid, a spicy and useful souvenir.
Our fab city tour concludes with a late-afternoon refresh at the very grand Globus Department Store, followed by exquisite Swiss chocolate truffles. Wonderful and restorative sipping and staring.
Bars & Bistros
Zurich’s bar and bistro scene combines eclectic international fare and traditional pub favorites. The ambiance is also a clever mix of old and new, with stylish interiors, antique wood finishes, and a mysteriously buttoned-up yet cool vibe — how do they do it?
During this visit, however, we prefer to savor during cozy evenings at home with Marcello and family, whose wonderful little girl is more exquisite and engaging than any pub, anywhere!
Home Cooking
Our wondrous home meals are outstanding, starting with a salt-roasted branzino, wow, in true Italian style. Impressive!
Honoring Swiss tradition, we indulge in traditional Raclette, served with boiled potatoes, pickles, vegetables and red wine, eaten slowly over a hot grill. Each adult has his/her own paddle for hot cheese. Native and unctuous, it is a classic Swiss feast!
Inspiring & Impressive
Switzerland is more than chocolate and churches. They boast four national languages and maintain a robust social safety net. First and foremost, the Swiss are truly, madly, deeply Swiss, and there is much to admire in their commitment to social justice, dignity and peace for all. •
Our wonnnnnderful Swiss spring break! •
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