Portions of this write-up originally appeared in RealFoodTraveler.com, where I am East Coast Editor.

We’re ecstatic to be heading to the 43rd edition of the world’s largest jazz festival, the Festival International de Jazz de Montréal. Celebrating music for over four decades, North America’s jazziest French-speaking metropolis welcomes fans for 10 days of music and celebration, June 29-July 8.

World-Class Lineup

Here humble jazz fans like me can rub shoulders with aficionados of the genre in every form. Through the years, I’ve seen performances by greats Buddy Guy, Wynton Marsalis, Leonard Cohen, the B-52s, Melody Gardot, Stevie Wonder, Madeleine Peyroux, the late Dave Brubeck … and so many more.

This year I am looking forward to the great Herbie Hancock on July 3, and the very jazzy Diana Krall on the 4th. Plus the upbeat, fresh music of Snarky Puppy on the 5th — it doesn’t get any better than this year’s superb Festival Lineup.

Something for Everyone

The Fest features 350 concerts, 2/3 of which are free. As the sprawling site closes to traffic, the heart of Montreal becomes the epicenter of jazz and a world of musical genres for 10 days. It all happens on a beautiful urban oasis — green, sustainable and car-free.

Fab & Free!

Fab and free includes velvet-voiced bass virtuoso Stephen Lee Bruner, alias Thundercat, who will do a deep dive into electronic, psychedelic jazz, soul, hip hop, and R&B. This cat is the incarnation of neo-jazz, and again, his irresistible performance is FREE — 100% gratis!

Sleep & Sustenance

This year we’ve rented an upscale loft in the Latin Quarter, close to Place des Arts. The Latin Quarter neighborhood is home to dozens of bars, clubs and bistros, from urban chic to delightfully gritty — a great place to hang your party hat during festival week.

Eclectic noshing opportunities include everything from sesame bagels to white tablecloth joints to funky food trucks. Cruise Chinatown for delicious dim sum, visit Joe Beef for neo-Burgundian excellence, or hike the Plateau to Schwartz’s for legendary smoked meat sandwiches. Here you will find my favorite fast-food, Piri-Piri, aka “pepper-pepper”in Swahili. These guys do succulent Portugese chicken roasted in their own tingling hot sauce of paprika, bay leaves, and tarragon, wow.

Or step into exquisite old-world bistro, L’Express, the heart, soul and saveur of Old Montréal. Savor duck and chicken liver paté with chewy baguette, and don’t miss the jars of cornichons and coarse mustard on every table. Remember the address, 3927 Rue Saint-Denis!

Sugar and Spice

As always, we’ll frequent Montreal’s sprawling open-air market, Jean Talon, for colorful fresh produce, crusty breads, savory local duck, cheese and fine wines. Show up early to grab a decadent Montreal Sugar Pie – I crave them all year long!

We never miss a chance to celebrate at Nyks, onsite festival go-to pub. Swill like a local with local brews and classic favorites like Moules-Frites, our favorite Belgian-inspired treat. Nirvana!

Or if you’re feeling dainty, just order the excellent house fries with a dab of mayo and splash of vinegar, s’il vous plait. 

Or go full-on native with Nyks classic Québécois Poutine! French fries, cheese curds and unique foie-gras gravy. Sublimely decadent, unctuous and silky — spectacular slumming!

Coffee Time

It’s important to sober up periodically, yes?

Try Anticafé, a funky, homey snapshot of Montreal hipster life. Grab a co-working spot with café regulars — get creative and survey festival action from above.

Up On The Roof

Or go even higher to Labo Culinaire in the heart of the Quartier des Spectacles, on the top floor of the Société des Arts et Technologiques. The menu is organic and changes according to the season. I love the farm-to-table menu, the urban vibe and twinkling city lights below – vive la romance!

Montreal nightlife celebrates unabashed, prolonged bar-hopping. Dance the night away at clubs onsite or in Old Montreal. Enjoy a pub-crawl through the city’s wine bars, brew pubs and dives, like beloved Jojo. Sip cinq-a-sept cocktails on the Renaissance Hotel rooftop with its wondrous bird’s-eye city view.

Planet Jazz

So join me in my favorite North American city for the biggest, best and tastiest of Montreal’s fantastic festivals. You will not be disappointed!

“Jazz from the 2st century is changing and mutating, drawing on other musical styles, and our programming reflects this refreshing change. Jazz lovers are becoming more diversified, new generations are tuning in, and we couldn’t be happier.” — Maurin Auxéméry, Programming Director