Montréal Jazz Festival is a beloved annual celebration. According to the Guinness Book of Records, it is the largest jazz festival in the world, with over two million fans of music of all genres descending on the city throughout the festival’s joyous 10-day run. B.B. King called it the “Best in the world!”

Oh, the heat, la chaleur, is fierce today, compounded by Montreal’s punishing humidity. Children splash in sidewalk fountains, crowing and shrieking as the cool jets bubble, splash and surprise.

History Meets Hip

Montréal is a sophisticated city that embraces its historic French heritage and multi-cultural future.

Updated row houses with signature exterior spiral stairs peacefully coexist with modern glass and steel condo/office towers that seem to touch the clouds.

This urban oasis features multiple places of worship in gorgeous architectural styles, from Gothic to Art Deco to contemporary. Montréal is as diverse as it is fascinating.

Montréal invites artists from all over the world to its annual Mural Festival each year. Artists create vibrant works of art here, where the urban art form is revered and supported – impressive.

This hybrid of modern sensibility, multicultural diversity, and reverence for the past is perhaps the future of urbanism — nice job, Montreal!

Oh Canada!

We arrive on Canada Day, July 1, and stay through the 5th, sparing ourselves the red, white and blue excesses at home. Place des Festivals is alive with music and throngs of happy fans – a beautiful sight!

Four-Season Festivals

Montreal is not merely a summer destination, oh no. With more than 90 festivals throughout the year, it is a city for all seasons, with something for everyone.

We love the crisp, chilly winter fest, La Lumiere. You may find yourself in snow up to your armpits, but the city magically makes it all work. Neither ice nor snow nor la chaleur breaks Montréal’s spirit!

Native Cuisine: Au Bon Gout

We sip, savor and explore our way through this delicious city. Food is a great way to experience the art and soul of any place, and Montréal is no exception.

We book a loft on Rue Saint-Denis in the epicenter of culinary diversity, the Quartier Latin. Saint-Denis closes to traffic from June 1 – Sept. 30, creating a wonderful culinary corridor all summer. International cafés, street-side bistros and pubs make the Quartier an incredible foodie destination to sip, savor and explore.

Good Morning

Breakfast is the most important meal of the day. We stroll to Eva B on nearby Saint-Laurent, part junk shop, resale boutique, funky jewelry and ephemera emporium – and café. Eva’s rocks. 

We linger over frothy cappuccino under Eva’s trees. We’re honored to share curried carrot-chickpea roll-ups beneath a mural featuring Canadian hockey great, “Rocket” Richard – Breakfast of Champions!

Quebecois Classics

If you prefer to rise and shine with Quebecois flair, there are many creperies throughout the city. We sit street-side, enjoying cheesy crepes and sipping dark roast. This is all-day fare, sweet or savory. Yum.

Or how about the venerable Montreal Classic, poutine? From gourmet to gritty, poutine is the ultimate hangover food, and available everywhere.

Takeout choices abound on Saint-Denis, from pizza to pierogi to Portugese. Tip for home cooks: get to Piri-Piri on Saint-Denis for a bottle of their house-made marinade. It’s a delectable souvenir!

Day Dreaming

Herbie Hancock conducts a press conference in Griffintown, and I am lucky enough to be invited. This jazz icon has a truly generous spirit.

And a fascinating backstory: From urban Chicago youth, to joining jazz-great Don Byrd’s band at age 15 (“you’ll have to ask my mother”). From young husband and father, to making music with legend, Miles Davis. Now a grandfather, Buddhist and vegan, this swingin’ cat is all wisdom and gravitas.

Sangria City

We return to earth, post-Herbie, with cool two-tone sangria at our fave Griffintown pub, Burgundy Lion. Each bar and bistro in Montréal has its own unique sangria. According to a sturdy, antique law, sangria must be prepared by the glass. We sample as many wonderful versions as we can.

Upscale Sesame

We make our way back to the jazz fest to the strains of gentle violin and piano. We dig the afternoon sound-checks, ubiquitous and free. And as always, this rarified jazzy atmosphere makes us hungry…

We pop in to Sesame Bistro for signature sangria and jumbo calamari. Both are outstanding, deeply flavorful, and studded with black sesame seeds. The cool blonde sangria of white wine, Bombay gin, strawberry syrup, lemongrass, fresh ginger, kombucha, sesame, and yes, lychee – is superb!

Jazz Time

Free & Fabulous

Beneath the trees of Place Tranquille, we’re in the groove with Endea Owens & The Cookout. We sip chilled Prosecco as the band glows, red hot. All of us are on our feet in appreciation.

Bassist and composer Endea Owens has played alongside jazz and soul greats like Wynton Marsalis, Solange, Jon Batiste and Dee Dee Bridgewater. She shimmies her fringe and delivers gospel-style riffs on God and man. Endea, we love you!

Festival Crush 2023

Pedrito Martinez (center) brings his Afro-Cuban conga joy to Jazz Time. His smile is infectious and his drumming, impeccable. Coo-coo-ca-choo, Pedrito, you are my Festival Crush. Deal with it.

With over 300 free events at the Festival you will be amused and delighted in equal parts each evening at Jazz Time. All gratis performances are carefully vetted for skills and musicality. Heck, don’t you want that job? I do.

Bird’s Eye View

We go waaaay up high to watch and listen to the festival unfold. It’s magic. Here we are on the Doubletree Hotel’s roof-deck lounge catching the McGill Jazz Band. What fun!

Night Moves

Jazz Evenings

Trumpeter Chris Botti showcases his world-class talent and golden sound. At the very top of his game, Botti best known for blending classic and contemporary jazz. He graciously welcomes an array of amazing guest artists who seamlessly become part of his performance. Wonderful!

Melody Gardot has captivated audiences everywhere with her soulful, sultry voice, and unique blend of jazz, blues, and R&B. Supported by her amazing band, she wows the Jazz Fest (and me) with a multi-faceted performance of classics from the Great American Songbook. Ah.

Canadian jazz pianist, vocalist and goddess Diana Krall is legendary for soulful vocals and unparalleled piano chops. She mesmerizes all of us in Wifred-Pelletier Hall with her brand of pure jazz magic — an extra-special night for jazz fans like me. Diana is dreamy.

Nightcap

It’s late. We head to venerable blues club JoJo on Saint-Denis, near our “home-away.” The music is late, and happily, so are we. We lean in and decompress to bearded bluesman Caleb Taylor and his percussive guitar licks before heading to the loft for a good night’s sleep. Zzz.

Good Morning

If you’re hungover, which is inevitable, hop down to Atwater Market for a whiff of the day’s produce, fragrant flowers and baking bread. Restorative and revitalizing, a fresh and friendly morning recharge.

Grab coffee and pastry at Boulangerie Premiere Moisson – the raspberry Danoise are fresh, sweet and lovely!

Farewell Feast

At Casa Galicia, we’re welcomed by lovely flamenco guitar and cool glass of wine. The smiling owner is gracious despite the oppressive chaleur, and assures us that he speaks Spanish, French and English.

After our last day of exploring Montreal’s urban core, it is nice to be welcomed into this lovely setting. First course of grilled octopus, greens and herbs is fresh and delicious; a cool seafood salad. Followed by a succulent second course of chubby bacalao (cod) fritters and plump grilled shrimp.

And oh my, this is followed by our standout third course, Casa Galicia’s signature paella. Ta-da! Studded with clams, mussels, scallops, chicken and chorizo – a gracious and tasty au revoir from my favorite North American city!

A lovely way to end our week of la chaleur, incredible music, occasional thunderstorms and superb food. This festival is my kind of jazzy madness, and this tasty finale gives us the potent recharge that an overheated summer requires.

With a mix of local and international jazz and world music artists, the festival is always a celebration of culture and joy. From the smooth sounds of classic jazz to the energetic beats of hip-hop and fusion, there’s something for everyone. So come on up to Montréal for a week or a weekend of non-stop music, celebration and joy. Trust me, this is the BEST and we look forward to it all year.

A Bientot, Montréal!

Sample Montréal Festivals