Ah. Home again.

Buongiorno! We’re back for our annual extended stay. We lean into Cernobbio’s old-world charm, narrow cobbled streets, grand villas and lakeside views. Our apartment in hundred-year-old workforce housing is clean and contemporary, thanks to the reliable cool-hunters at MyHomeInComo.com.

We’re here to do business and enjoy our first spring. Magnolia trees are in bloom, baby grass is delicate green, and it’s full-on Primavera. Our second spring begins when we return to chilly New England, brr.

The Driver and I cultivate a bright window garden which makes the flat feel like “ours” for the extended stay. We park the dove-gray Fiat, and leave it nearly the the entire time. Cernobbio is a walking town.

Villa Bernasconi

Our distinguished neighbor is Villa Bernasconi, whose decorative concrete flourishes feature caterpillars, flowers and butterflies, a playful nod to the family’s role in the Como silk industry.

Elegant ceramic Art Deco tiles wrap the upper levels. The villa is a pleasure to see each morning!

The grand entrance hall is painted yellow with gold and turquoise stained glass. The lofty space feels oddly vast, its mid-century modern lighting out of place, undistinguished.

I inquire about “original” lighting fixtures. The docent explains that there was no electricity in 1906, eyebrows raised at my ignorance. I suddenly feel a slight chill in the soaring space.

Ignorance aside, the villa’s eclectic exterior is a lovely, artistic homage to Spring, and I never tire of it!

Unhurried to Urban

We enjoy the sunny, scenic ferry to downtown Como. The passing shore is bellissima, as always, but the air quality is not. Climate change is palpable here in northern Italy, and very, very real.

Window Shopping

Fashion-forward Como showcases periwinkle and fuchsia in women’s shops. Soft lilac, dusty blue and deep pink for children and men. Pandemic grays are disappearing, finally! making room for jazzy brights and florals.

We admire Como’s grand and glorious cathedrals, and monuments to native son, Alessandro Volta, of electric-battery fame. We salute Volta as we recycle used batteries at neighborhood Lidl Market.

Work, Play, Repeat

It’s a gas choosing vivid, graphic florals in summery blends for this year’s collection. Our factory in Como is busy producing, and we’re busy scouting — bring on the brights!

Occasionally, our work feels very much like play — it is a wonderful gift!

Grand Day Out

Feeling up for a challenge, we decide to walk the three miles into Como and walk back — a gorgeous springtime stroll.

Our adventure takes us past grand villas, sprawling gardens and elaborate boathouses. We observe more babies than ever, many species of well-cared-for dogs, and one trembling middle-aged cat on a leash.

Villa d’Este

Villa d’Este is a UNESCO World Heritage site, nestled in a beautiful, park-like setting. Built in the 1600s as a nobleman’s opulent retreat, now a luxury hotel. Ask if they’ll let you have a peek!

Villa Erba

Do not miss the Villa Erba, another grand villa on glorious park-like grounds. We are delighted to find this gem so close to our apartment on Via Regina.

The sprawling event space and gardens offer a green and accessible respite throughout the spring and summer, when Italy can be dangerously hot.

Lakeside Spritz

Altogether a grand day! We congratulate ourselves lakeside at Bar Onda as the setting sun glows red in our Campari Spritz — truly la dolce vita.

Home Cooking

We cook at “home” most nights with local ingredients. It’s fun to experiment with the freshest and prettiest food anywhere. Garlic, basil, parmigiano, olive oil and pasta — what else do you need?

Street markets move from town-to-town along the lake, and provide a rich bounty daily. Food is glorious, beautiful and excellent quality — a colorful feast for the senses.

Lush Life

International Women’s Day at Bar Castiglione, local home of Brooklyn Pilsner. Yes, that Brooklyn. Local traffic circles the rotary as we savor a bit of organic Engine Gin, brewed in Italy. Engine’s recycled aluminum packaging is as stylish and rugged as The Driver himself. Unexpectedly herbaceous!

We stay out well past our usual sell-by, enjoying ourselves as evening falls across the craggy Como Hills. NOTE: The beloved Italian custom of complimentary aperitivi adds staying power.

Respect the Past, Revel in the Present

Cernobbio is a charming mix of multi-generational, modern and medieval. Reminders of its humble origins as a fishing village line the harbor. Boats sway gently as families socialize on the sunny shore.

Children play madly, happily, and dangerously close to the water’s edge. It is magical and very lively — che spettacolo!

Art for Art’s Sake

We’re drawn to the colorful exhibition by artist Erika Trojer at Tribal Art Gallery. We soon realize it is created from shotgun casings — sobering to American viewers for all the wrong reasons. But do keep moving, there is plenty to see and do in our Cernobbio home-away.

Inspired & Inspiring

Tucked into in the garden of the Villa Bernasconi, Anagramma Bar & Bistro is staffed by students of Cernobbio’s local hospitality school. Most impressive, it offers opportunities for disabled students.

Under the supervision of a kind and unflappable manager, the students prepare and serve tasty fare and drinks. These kids are serious, and utterly committed to doing well. Highly recommended!

As we enjoy wine and tasty bites, we spy our first camellia blooming on the lovely Bernasconi grounds. What a treat in February!

Sapore and Sustenance

Cernobbio’s narrow streets are lined with bars, bistros and cafés. Local specialties include puffy fried gnocchi, house-made pastas and delicate, sweet fish. High on our list of favorites is L’Osteria Beuc, mysteriously pronounced “Bootch.”

The Driver and I connect with beloved friend, Marcello, and his family. We dine happily at Osteria Beuc, and our “family style” dinner is a pleasure. It is not really Primavera without Rein, Marcel, and Adriana! I hope our seasonal tradition continues for a long, long time. Euro-reconnections are the best.

We enjoy a wonderful holiday meal of herbaceous green borage pasta with spring blossoms. Delicious! Borage was believed to instill courage and bring joy to the heart in ancient times — heck, it always works for me!

Arrivederci …

Next Up: Nesso, Argegno and lovely La Morra!

Our holiday-birthday celebration continues in La Morra, Piedmonte, home of velvety Barolo & Nebbiolo wines…