La Scala II

Posted on April 2, 2012 by Epicurious Travelers

Finally, I am inside La Scala. Had to get a special i.d. – a bit like struggling through homeland security. They still have my driver’s license, I may never see it again. Right now, I don’t care.

Needless to say, it is beautiful, six balconies tall, and a bit spooky since it is completely dark. There is nothing quite as dark as deep inside a theater. It is pre-opening rehearsal and everybody has a massive case of jitters. There’s a lot of arguing and pointing and moving lights and twirling dance moves over and over. I am sitting here with my iPad on its darkest-dark setting and pretty much holding my breath.

Right now a lone dancer perches on a sky-blue loveseat as they tweak the lights around her. The set is minimal, with two giant mirrors, the aforementioned loveseat, and a bed. There is a lot of “Bene grazie, silencio, basta,” coming over the speakers.

A young dancer with long hair begins dancing to “Celia,” a Vosco Rossi ballad that I have not heard before. This piece seems to be about a young woman as she springs out of bed and tries on a few outfits…in a very balletic and beautiful way. It sounds silly but it is gorgeous and sophisticated, even surprising – dare I say, Italian.

The Italians idealize, no, revere young women. There is just enough nudity onstage to make L’altra Meta del Cielo very adult, however.  The gritty music has a roughness that elevates the piece from Sugar Plum Fairies. The director keeps yelling, “Chris? Bob?” in a petulant way that suggests this will be a very long day for everyone.

A faceted mirror ball is rotating onstage that creates an effect of stylized snow. There are thirty or so slim, elegant dancers, the director calls them “ragazzi,” and as they spring into the dance I see why. They flip and snap their bodies in twirly skirts, form-fitting Armani-style suits and leather jackets. One woman has a pair of leather boots. Imagine a slim bird or angel dancing in Uggs.

The costumes are far from cliche – this is the fashion capital of the universe – so no resemblance to Sharks and Jets. They are stylized and bright, with the occasional flash of shiny fabric or long leg. L’altra Meta del Cielo is a balletic piece with elegant physicality, and when the music is rough it adds an interesting undertone of violence.

This short bit is great stuff, and ends with one of the couples having sex in a chair. Perfect. •

For Laura T. and Nancy Z. without whom I wouldn’t have written a word.
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Designing Milan

Posted on March 29, 2012 by Epicurious Travelers


I’m in one of my favorite cities, Milan, Italy, where it’s full-on spring and the fashion billboards are in bloom. The Milanese are still wearing black and gray, but the occasional jolt of yellow gloves or fuchsia shoes signals a warming trend.

Ever heard of a mozzarella tasting? Try Obika, where Italy’s iconic cheese is served in a palate-bending array of flavors and textures. From soft and gooey to smoked and squeaky, Obika is a revelation from start to finish.

Milan’s soaring glass dome, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, is a great starting point for exploring Italian fashion and yes, cocktail culture. Try a “spritz” at Biffi bar where Aperol or Campari is brightened with bubbly Prosecco and a slice of orange. This red menace is served with plates of hearty bruschette, salume, and the ubiquitous cone of chips. Milan’s upscale effervescence is at its best under the glass of the incomparable Galleria.

Milan is a city of neighborhoods and Brera is one of its sweetest, with galleries, boutiques and antique shops around every corner. We stumble onto an outstanding meal at La Torre di Pisa, an old-fashioned trattoria with rustic anchovies in olive oil with butter, robust steak, and a veal-wrapped mozzarella smothered in roasted artichokes that is simply succulent. La dolce vita reigns with a romantic stroll down Brera’s cobblestone streets.

Another trendy spot is Navigli, a bohemian neighborhood along the canal. We savor a glass of Prosecco at the brand-new Sofa bar surrounded by Italian poetry and verse – nice. Navigli’s legendary flea market offers everything from funky felt dresses to smoking paraphernalia. Canal-side boutiques are the essence of cool, like Mauro Bolognesi’s mid-century Danish-modern teak furniture shop whose vintage “buon fattura” evokes The Ice Storm, straight-up.

"Fashion Victim"

Home to twin fashion icons, Armani and Prada, the discussion here is velvet or metallic, toe caps or ankle straps, chainmail or PVC – fashion first. Not without irreverence, however, the collection and commentary can be deliciously dark as in Victim de la Mode, right.

La Scala is the most famous opera house in the world; the grand marble lobby dates back to the 1700s. Don’t miss the ethereal production of L’altra Meta del Cielo, choreographed to the music of contemporary singer-songwriter Vosco Rossi (through April 13).

With an exploding restaurant scene, astonishing contemporary furniture, lighting and interiors, stunning visual arts, performance and music, and of course, fashion, Milan is a creative mecca. I know I’ll be back to this gritty designing city. Ci vediamo, Milano.  •

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Artisan: You Can Go Home Again

Posted on February 12, 2012 by Epicurious Travelers

Connecticut is a long way to go for dinner, but it’s worth it to spend time with my favorite artist and human being – Veecha.

“At the Art Students League in 1945, Will Barnet held up a mirror and insisted I do self-portrait. I did this lithograph, left. I did the line drawing and the self-portrait, below, a few years later.”

So where do you take a great artist for a memorable evening?

Here’s a suggestion: Artisan restaurant in Southport – a perfect spot for reminiscing, sipping, and sampling. “Take your time,” is Artisan’s mantra, and chef Frederick Kieffer makes you want to linger. We’re happy grazing and savoring, so it’s a perfect fit.

Roasted beet salad with dandelion and blue cheese is a perfect combination of sweet, salt, and tangy bitterness with a creamy hit. Lobster bisque arrives glowing with New England flavor and color – not an oxymoron, here. Robust gnocchi with lamb is silky and comforting. The roast duck breast “a la plancha” is succulent, drool-worthy delicious.

Another standout is grilled calamari over green tomato and mustard-seed – we’ll be back for more.

A smooth sorbet trio is a beautiful way to end a delicious evening of friendship and flavor, and the chef’s treat of caramel-and-sea-salt crowned cheesecake gets a standing ovation as we put on our coats and head out into the Valentine’s eve chill. Thank goodness, you can go home again.  •

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Epicurious Gratitude

Posted on January 27, 2012 by Epicurious Travelers

The Epicurious Flying Thomases

We Epicurious Travelers would be nothing without our epicurious friends. Without you, we’d be lost!

To the Thomases who introduced us to the charms of Vieques – to lechon, yucca fritters, and Medalla beer.

Andrea Poggi

Hats off to Andrea Poggi who has presided over so many wonderful meals in Italy, we’ve lost track. Grazie, man, and yes, we received the “Zampone,” it’s a very fine trotter.

Andrea organized a wonderful meal for us at Da Fortunato Al Pantheon in Rome. We enjoyed this elegant downtown oasis through two plates of spaghetti vongole and the last drop of vin santo.

And to Chris, with whom we’ve shared the oinky charms of New York City, Cambridge, San Francisco, little old Portland and beyond for what seems like a billion years.

And last but not least, here’s to my original traveling partner – my dad. Our epicurious adventures carried us as far as Paris, Rome, London, Prague, Vienna, and as near as Stony Creek, Connecticut. Thanks, Manny, for your freewheeling spirit and joie de vivre. •

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Broadway & Batali: 48 Hours

Posted on December 23, 2011 by Epicurious Travelers

This weekend we make a lollypop-shaped loop around Manhattan mostly in and around Hell’s Kitchen and the theatre district. Our wild ride includes a spectacular dip down the stick to the Flatiron District to check out Mario Batali’s latest venture.

Our odyssey begins at Firebird, a romantic Russian restaurant that resembles czarist St. Petersburg. Patrons dine on caviar and herring prepared a billion ways while enjoying one of the most extensive vodka lists this side of Kiev. Firebird’s honey vodka is so mind-numbingly sweet I recommend you save the dainty signature sip for dessert. Framed antique ballet costumes preside over plates of gravlax, blinis and caviar to die for. Service is attentive and the tableside preparation is nifty. Firebird feels authentic with old-world charm and flavor to spare, but when you get the check you may feel your tail feathers starting to singe.  Is it worth it? Heck yeah.

A trio of one-acts by Woody Allen, Elaine May, and the Coen Brothers really works up an appetite, so we head for a post-theatre snack at Marseille restaurant in Hell’s Kitchen. Marseille delivers simple, robust French flavors in smooth brasserie style.  The dense duck liver pate provides a nice fatty coating for a palate still smarting from flaming Russian desserts. Marseilles’ signature mussels in white wine and garlic are briny and sweet, perfect after-midnight fare.

High-end food courts like those in Italy are becoming popular in the city that never sleeps. Tucked into the first floor of a block in the Flatiron District, Eataly is the brainchild of Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich. Everyone’s smiling as they snake in and out of busy shops and restaurants, gelateria, espresso bar, vegetable stand, wine bar, Alessi housewares, pastry, breads, cheese, cheese, cheese, and much more.

In the thick of Eataly’s bustle is Manzo, one of few sit-down options in the market. We nail a spot at the bar and cruise the wine list landing on Prosecco, as always. The veal sweetbread and mushroom antipasto is delicious, and the roasted cauliflower dish is a revelation. Sadly, the gratin of cardoons and artichokes is gloopy and bleargh. We move on to linguine with scallops glistening beneath dense meaty prosciutto and a scattering of scallions with an Asian edge. The agnolotti with brown butter and Parmigiano is exquisite – sexy pasta pillows so delicate, rich and flavorful you want to eat them all night. We splurge a little on grappa. His is rough with a faint turpentine whiff; mine is as smooth and compelling as a black-velvet Elvis.

We make an 8:00 curtain with minutes to spare after a terrifying bike-taxi-rickshaw up Broadway whose legendary bright lights zip by like something out of Star Wars. Seminar with Allen Rickman and Lily Rabe is so smart and so funny and so great I am not even going to talk about it.  Just see it. Period.

Tonight’s post-theatre nosh takes us to Balkanikas tapas and wine bar, famous for fabulously creamy and delicious meze spreads. Don’t miss the beet and pinenut puree or their signature taramosalata (carp roe) spread served with pita triangles. Try the refreshing shopsha salad with feta. Their pita is divine and happily soaks up a lot of alcohol.

Morning-after fare is spectacularly abundant at Chelsea Market, where we not only shop ‘til we plotz but fill up on spinach quiche, oat scones, and cupcakes. Yes, cupcakes – breakfast of champions, Chelsea style. I don’t know when New York’s cupcake obsession is going to end, but let’s hope it isn’t soon.

And then back up Broadway in time for the new Porgy and Bess at Richard Rodgers Theatre, astonishingly beautiful. Don’t. Miss. It.

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Tuscan Travelers

Posted on November 9, 2011 by Epicurious Travelers

Today we take the long way home, poking along the Arno circling the south and east side of Florence to visit our friend Tom Müller in Diacetto-Pelago and see his nifty restoration of Santa Maria a Ferrano. A green, golden and occasionally pericoloso (dangerous!) journey along Tuscan switchbacks and curves, but a beautiful and fragrant trip nonetheless. 

We smell burning leaves and catch the occasional baking whiff. It is Sunday, after all, and everyone is heading to nonna’s for a big Sunday lunch. We are blithely heading for Tom’s on the off-chance he will be home. He is not.

Ciao, Tom, ci vediamo.  And by the way, your views are spectacular.

A Favorite Tuscan Lunch:

Tortelloni with Sage (salvia) & Butter

Fresh sage, preferably from your own Tuscan backyard, growing wild.  Pick 7-8 big leaves and cut into slivers. Melt butter and add sage. Cook until butter just begins to brown and bubble; the sage will be fragrant and a little crispy. Bring a pot of water to a boil but first make sure it is as salty as the Mediterranean. Add fresh tortelloni, ravioli, or pachetti pasta and cook al dente. Drain and toss with butter & sage. Add a little cooking water if necessary, pepper to taste, and grated parmegiano reggiano. We traveled with hunk from our downstairs neighbor “Ruggero”  all the way from Rome to La Spezia to Como and Florence and back. Wrapped in paper. Rugged stuff. •


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Charmed in Cinque Terre

Posted on October 26, 2011 by Epicurious Travelers

Amore in Corniglia

We’re here at the hilltop wedding of Deborah and Lorenzo who are as beautiful as they are exuberant, throwing fistfuls of candy from the church steps to guests and onlookers. The festivities last all day and well into the evening with fish prepared 30 ways, robust homemade wines, and a very special Limoncello made by the groom.

 

Light cliffside refreshments and Champagne overlooking the sparkling sea, ah. Then on to Monterosso for lobster risotto, ceviche, frutti di mare, shrimp, crawfish and fresh anchovies, salmon crudo and velvety fish paté and mousse. Plus Spanish jamon crudo, a steak course and 10,000 desserts, including mini-wedding cakes and gelato wrapped in hazelnut wafer with dark chocolate. Grappa and coffee.

About halfway through the bacchanale, a bottle of Fernet appears – “it settles the stomach” – very thoughtful, grazie!

After two receptions, toasts, congratulations, and hours of eating, the couple buzzes down the stone restaurant hallway on a Vespa. Everyone in this hardworking family manages to turn up for work the next morning, amazing.

To our hard-partying credit we stay until the last flaming paper lantern is launched over the blue Ligurian sea – we outlast the bride’s parents. When we go to bed, pink and blue rice falls from our clothes onto the floor. •

NOTE: Since we left, Monterosso Al Mare flooded – completely washed out.  This video gives a dramatic visual of the mud and water that cascaded into Monterosso the day we left.  My heart goes out to Andrea Poggi and his wonderful family.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GgnXMpMZw8

Tre Amici, Andrea Poggi in the middle

Restaurant La Pineta

Wedding cakes

Priest, il Padre

Cliffside mini-reception

Hail to the Chef!

Andrea Poggi and guest

Wedding poster

La Principessa

The lovely Maria

Ela and Angelo

Bride's family – very elegant and glamorous Mama

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Searching for George Clooney

Posted on October 25, 2011 by Epicurious Travelers

It’s a rainy day here in Como, Italy, and we’re looking for George Clooney whose handsome image graces bars and trattorias all over town. Some are autographed, but most simply feature that legendary chiseled mug.

It’s safe to say that “Georgia Clooney,” as the locals say, has charmed them all.

George, if you’re out there we’re in the Touring Café in the Centro at a table for three. A presto, Georgia, ci vediamo. •

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Cultures of Desire

Posted on October 5, 2011 by Epicurious Travelers

 An Examination of Art and Food

Culture of Desire

Over the next three consecutive Wednesdays at the Strand Theatre in Rockland, the Farnsworth Museum will present a special series on the interrelationship between food production/culinary history and paintings that depict food. Drawing on readings in anthropology, archaeology, material culture, social history, cookery texts and art history, Cultures of Desire will highlight some of the more unusual ways humans find and produce sustenance, and how they have created artworks that celebrate the nourishment of body and spirit.

Keith Collins, MD, and the Farnsworth's Roger Dell

MIT graduate and physician Keith Collins, MD, and Farnsworth Director of Education and Harvard instructor Roger Dell will lead this interdisciplinary exploration of art and food, using images from medical texts to cook books, from prehistoric cave walls to the Food Channel.

Lecture One: The Dawn of Food

The initial lecture will trace the history of food and cooking from the Stone Age through the collapse of the Roman Empire. We will examine the extraordinary impact of food technology (hunting, cooking, and agriculture) on human evolution, how it reshaped bodies and minds. These innovations will be depicted though images by early artists on cave walls in south central France, wine bowls in Greece, and mosaic tiles across the Roman Empire.

Lecture Two: Eat, Drink and Be Merry!

This lecture will focus on the physiological, psychological and sociological aspects of food and cooking. For example, how does food stimulate the reward centers of the brain? Why do people across time and cultures socialize around meals? Artworks such as sensuous Dutch still-life paintings will be read as visual poems to national pride and prosperity, filled with glorious depictions of Dutch cheese and butter, and also with international treasures such as French wine, Baltic grain for bread, Indian pepper, and Chinese porcelains.

Lecture Three: À Votre Santé: Food and Health

This lecture will begin with an examination of the connection between food, eating and our health. The diets of long-lived cultures around the world will be explored, along with the latest thinking on how to eat for both health and pleasure in the modern world. Another aspect of this lecture will be a survey of how modern and contemporary artists use food in painting, sculpture, photography and film. The lecture and the series will conclude with an exploration of how Maine is fast becoming a leader in one component of a healthier diet: fresh, local, organic foods.

Don’t miss this special series at the Strand Theatre in Rockland! Dates and times:

10/5/11   Wednesday – 5:30 pm

10/12/11  Wednesday – 5:30 pm

10/19/11  Wednesday – 5:30 pm

Admission: Series Ticket $36 members, $45 nonmembers; Individual Lectures $15 members, $18 nonmembers. To order tickets call 207-596-0949 or go online to www.farnsworthmuseum.org

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Goodbye Old Friend

Posted on September 26, 2011 by Epicurious Travelers

My friend Michael Barriault was one of Portland’s most passionate photographers. He captured the sizzle of food and the drama of politics always from what he considered the ultimate vantage point, even if it was way up in the rafters. As one of Portland’s most active food bloggers, his work was an exciting addition to the Portland food scene at PortlandTown.blogspot.com.

“He was fearless,” said his wife Toby Rosenberg. He was also uncensored and spontaneous – occasionally a social time-bomb. But he was our time bomb, and much beloved.

He loved good food and wine, and was forever bringing us ¼ bottles of wine from Micucci’s, saying, “You gotta try this!” At left is the last photo we took together at the Italian Life Expo. The mussels were briny and beautiful, and I couldn’t resist sampling a few. It wrecked the shot. With trademark manic energy, Michael dashed off to find an unsullied plate, better light, and less-greedy assistant.

Mikey was quirky, irascible, loving, long-winded, and extremely generous. He was a big man in a small body whose proud spirit will be sorely missed and remembered with much delight — forever. •

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