Como Cool

We’re in the heart of downtown Como on via Dante, across from the imposing peaks that characterize the lake. We watch the changing light from our expansive, columned deck.Our apartment is a comfy version of Italian modern — upscale, sleek and bright. This is good in case we’re stuck inside for a couple of rainy weeks. Like right now.

Villa Dante is part of an ancient urban cluster of buildings in hues of salmon, apricot and saffron. The colors are warm but evening damp drapes the hills in a foggy stole of clouds.

We make sprawling, messy dinners followed by grappa, oranges and TV. I adore chef Alessandro Borghese, insouciant host of Cuochi d’Italia and 4 Ristoranti. Yum.We’re a block or two from the Duomo and close to the indoor public market, a bustling 1930s masterpiece of stucco and glass brick. I like the brutalist lettering, MERCATO.It is early spring, la primavera. Hopeful pansies and primrose bloom in the market, but it isn’t very warm despite their colorful efforts.I sit across from the Metropole Suisse in Piazza Cavour while hubby gets his yayas out striding around the lake. It is finally sunny, and we are almost done ruining our health with big meals, too much coffee, animal fat in all its forms and Vogue vacation smokes.

I write this hunched over a coffee next to an outdoor heater in full-on sun, an artificial arrangement that imitates the brilliance of summer — almost.

The Duomo is of course the major attraction — all roads lead to the cathedral. Since we’re here for several weeks, we admire her gorgeous proportions from several vantage points.

Look up: The Duomo is as imposing as ever.

From the side: Her curves are robust and massive as Anna Magnani.

Straight on: Lovely Mary is flanked by Como’s patron saints. I don’t see my favorites, Saint Liberata or Saint Faustina, but I know they’re here somewhere.

Best of all: The view from Loft Bar on the top floor of Coin department store. Sip champagne, admire the towers and terra cotta rooftops, and enjoy a bird’s eye view.

Como’s most famous citizen besides George Clooney was Alessandro Volta, electricity pioneer, whose Tempio museum and Scientia statues are ancient breaths of fresh air.

Modern pioneers work here, too. We admire the art of Fabrizio Musa and stalk him a little. His black & white “Novocomum,” above, is a striking graphic illusion.

Sightseeing makes me hungry. Two thumbs up for the Siciliano pizza from Locanda Barbarossa. Try the Diavolo with salad on top — red, white and green as the Italian flag!

And always save room for dessert — it’s not too sweet and it’s never too much.

For a last look, we drive the stunning 30 minutes to our customary retreat in Argegno. We bask in blue lakeside beauty until the weary sun slinks behind the hills.  It’s over.

Arrivederci, ciao, a presto!

 

 

 

About Epicurious Travelers

Ms. Margolis-Pineo created EpicuriousTravelers.com to showcase her published work and ongoing food-travel adventures. Based in Portland, Maine, she travels frequently both in her home state and north to Montreal, her favorite North American city. Although she refuses to use the word "foodie," she has an abiding interest in food and wine. Ms. Margolis-Pineo is also a graphic designer, giving her site a decided edge in an oversaturated blogosphere. New contacts, "likes," subscribers and content are welcome!
This entry was posted in Food and Wine, Italian Travel, Lake Como, Off-the-beaten-track and tagged , , . Bookmark the permalink.

One Response to Como Cool

  1. lulu says:

    How lucky you are to be enjoying this beautiful place in a beautiful place!

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.