We’re in the heart of downtown Como on via Dante, across from the imposing peaks that characterize the lake. We watch the changing light from our expansive, columned deck.Our apartment is a comfy version of Italian modern — upscale, sleek and bright. This is good in case we’re stuck inside for a couple of rainy weeks. Like right now.
We make sprawling, messy dinners followed by grappa, oranges and TV. I adore chef Alessandro Borghese, insouciant host of Cuochi d’Italia and 4 Ristoranti. Yum.We’re a block or two from the Duomo and close to the indoor public market, a bustling 1930s masterpiece of stucco and glass brick. I like the brutalist lettering, MERCATO.It is early spring, la primavera. Hopeful pansies and primrose bloom in the market, but it isn’t very warm despite their colorful efforts.I sit across from the Metropole Suisse in Piazza Cavour while hubby gets his yayas out striding around the lake. It is finally sunny, and we are almost done ruining our health with big meals, too much coffee, animal fat in all its forms and Vogue vacation smokes.
I write this hunched over a coffee next to an outdoor heater in full-on sun, an artificial arrangement that imitates the brilliance of summer — almost.
The Duomo is of course the major attraction — all roads lead to the cathedral. Since we’re here for several weeks, we admire her gorgeous proportions from several vantage points.
Look up: The Duomo is as imposing as ever.
From the side: Her curves are robust and massive as Anna Magnani.
Como’s most famous citizen besides George Clooney was Alessandro Volta, electricity pioneer, whose Tempio museum and Scientia statues are ancient breaths of fresh air.
Modern pioneers work here, too. We admire the art of Fabrizio Musa and stalk him a little. His black & white “Novocomum,” above, is a striking graphic illusion.
Sightseeing makes me hungry. Two thumbs up for the Siciliano pizza from Locanda Barbarossa. Try the Diavolo with salad on top — red, white and green as the Italian flag!
And always save room for dessert — it’s not too sweet and it’s never too much.
For a last look, we drive the stunning 30 minutes to our customary retreat in Argegno. We bask in blue lakeside beauty until the weary sun slinks behind the hills. It’s over.
Arrivederci, ciao, a presto!