The Thin Man Day

My friend Kari says we should’ve called our last post The Thin Man Day because we spent the whole time drinking and being intrepid.

I’m an artist. He’s an engineer. He reads maps. I read menus. He calculates exchange rates. I can ask for “corkscrew,” “tickets” and “toilets” in several languages.

The author of Traveling While Married says being the same old couple in a new and different place can be a disorienting experience. With us, it’s the opposite.  Being on the road steadies us, and we find ourselves at our best. •

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Looking for Ricky Martin in Old San Juan

So we missed the organic farmers market by 24 hours but caught the San Juan Museum whose antiquities and ephemera include a display on intentional cranial deformation. Mixing high culture and medical oddities always makes us hungry, so we indulged in a so-so lunch at local hangout El Jibarito. Stuffed and a little sick, we wandered the high cliff of Calle Norzagaray overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and San Cristobal Fort, trying to catch a breeze.

We’re refreshed by early evening and begin an awesome pub crawl at Anam spa and cocktail lounge at the very top of Cristo Street overlooking San Juan Bay. Talk about a nice touch – your first drink is free with purchase of a 20 minute foot massage.

We continued down Christo to La Danza Restaurant, lured by the mysterious portrait, left, hanging over the bar. We ripped through a plate of mofongo stuffed with conch, perfect drinking fare with a big splash of hot sauce.

Continuing down Christo is Maria’s bar where there really is a Maria. She has to be 100 but remains a raving beauty.  Okay, the wine is awful, but her collection of celebrity photos includes luminaries as diverse as Ted Kennedy and Steven Segal. I imagine they are all in love with Maria.

We enjoy a few more drinks and cheese tapas on the terrace of the historic El Convento Hotel’s El Picoteo bar overlooking the action near San Sebastián. El Convento is worth a look-see even if you’re not staying – this grande dame is a knockout.

Our distinguished and enlightening pub crawl ends, as always, on the roof deck of Da House watching glittering cruise ships slide away into the night sky.  •

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Sangria in Old San Juan

We love:

1. Red Sangria
2. Blue cobblestones
3. Food trucks
4. Restaurant Barú

We have 24 hours left and plan to find a few more.

 

Oh, and guess what’s on TV at our hotel, the hip and arty “Da House”…

 

 

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Breakfast by the Bay

We grab a giant breakfast sandwich down by the Vieques ferry terminal and eat on the pier admiring the shades of turquoise. The sandwich is awesome and feeds both of us plus the scruffy pier-dog at our feet.

We discover the cool shaded garden of Roy’s coffeehouse with WiFi and a cappuccino machine. The healthy yuppie choices comfort us in the calorie-laden fried-dough universe of Puerto Rico.

The people at the next table are discussing “aquaculture.” We might as well be in Brooklyn. As I hear the words “Whole Foods” and “leveraged,” I realize we are probably in the wrong spot. But it is so cool and comfortable. Why plunge back out into the shimmering heat?

Besides, I love the crazy artwork at Roy’s. A portrait of Miss Mary Tyler Moore. And this one, above, which suggests both Elvis and Maira Kalman and is probably neither.

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A Vieques Valentine

Ah, Puerto Rico, at last! Gorgeous, noisy, humid and wild. We are determined to taste and savor all week long. This is not a place for “sipping” – this is a guzzler’s paradise.

Our first coup has to do with meat. We reserve a mysterious bag of pork (“lechon”) to be picked up in the local graveyard between 5:30 and 7:00 AM. This roasted pig is legendary and we resolve to get a hunk of it as quickly as possible. “Extra skin” was our only request. It was even more and succulent than we imagined — only the greasy paper bag with the name “Elissabeth” was left as evidence.

We are staying in a fabulous little hotel called Amistad – small and comfortable, with a lovely overgrown patio in back plus several communal porches and decks. Guests are welcome to use the kitchen. Strong coffee is served each morning at 8:00. The little library and beautiful tiled pool (top photo), more for dipping than swimming, are unexpected delights. It is impossible not to relax in this atmosphere of friendship and comfort.


And you can’t beat the sunsets at Al’s.

More soon!

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Happy Valentine’s Day

Here is an early valentine to the world and to one of my favorite fellow travel writers, Necee Regis – an awesome writer and a great friend.

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Sibling Rivalry

Went to a restaurant in Boston called Sibling Rivalry on Tremont Street in the South End. The menu is split with culinary offerings from chefs and brothers, David and Bob Kinkead, who have created a “dueling” menu of different interpretations of seasonal ingredients. I ordered the crispy duck and a lovely beet salad from Bob’s side. Chris ordered salmon and pasta from David’s side. No crossover allowed – it’s one brother or the other. The concept cracked us up, and the food was nice, too.  Loved the dessert cookies. I am saving the coaster for my sister, Seeky.  •

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Snowy Day

We are enjoying (ha!) a perpetual blizzard here in the northeast. Our epicurious adventures are mostly indoors, at home, with a mug of Nathan’s Hot Chocolate

1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
2/3 cup sugar (Not sweet enough? Add more.)

Read on

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Mr. Poggi’s Gift

A mysterious package arrived by post yesterday from our friend Mr. Poggi in Monterosso Al Mare, Cinque Terre, Italy.  It was heavy. We thought it might be a bottle of his wine or maybe another encyclopedia-sized slab of pancetta. It turned out to be “Zampone Cotto,” a typical Modenese preparation of minced pork cooked in the skin of the pig’s foreleg – “in the paws of pigs” as it is described in Italy.

Mr. Poggi (left) and Dave

Often found on Italian tables during the Christmas and New Year holidays, “trotters” are traditionally served with lentils, stewed beans, mashed potatoes or buttered spinach, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, and a sparkling red Lambrusco. Grazie, Mr. Poggi!

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Epicurious Camden, Maine

Grand Harbor Inn: Romantic Escape for Two

Elegant suites, sparkling flavors and stunning water views

Island view – in snow

It’s another messy, bone-chilling winter and I am my usual post-holiday puffy self. At this time of year, I’m always in need of a relaxing, stress-busting, pampering experience. Camden’s Grand Harbor Inn and its sister property, the Lord Camden Inn, offer attractive specials that make Camden irresistible to anyone suffering the mid-winter blues.

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